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--- binding [2017/08/12 00:02]
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+++ binding [2017/10/10 12:02]
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 Another mystery solved! 8-)
+===== The binder accessory =====
+Binders come in a variety of sizes and types with specific attachment plates or generic ones. I prefer to keep binding simple. When I am binding one t-shirt neckline with self fabric, it isn't worth the trouble using a binder IMO. It takes some time to position the binder and when I am working with cotton lycra knits, the strips tend to curl towards the right side across the grain which makes it difficult to feed and fold the binding properly. Some people like using starch, but this again takes time. It is just as easy to attach the strip with a serger or with the chain stitch, then fold it and top stitch with a double needle narrow coverstitch as illustrated above.
+If you want to learn how to get the stretch just right, I suggest that you cut a couple of small test half necklines from scraps. Then try attaching the binding tape with the chain stitch. When you get to the end, don't tie off but lift the presser foot and turn the hand wheel a full turn backwards. That way the last stitch will unlock. Now press your fingers on the threads so they don't come undone and remove the test piece. Then you can look at the result and decide if you need to stretch more or less. Simply remove the threads by pulling the looper thread and you can start over. I did this like 6 to 12 times and after that I had developed a reasonable feeling for the job.
+Binders are great however for making a dozen onesies or several t-shirts, pajama's or underwear that requires a lot of binding. My preferred type and size is the A-style, cut size 28mm / 1 and 1/8". A-style means that the binding tape is folded on top and not folded at the bottom.
+==== How to cut continuous binding ====
+I prefer light to medium weight tubular binding for this method. The first line is drawn from zero to half the height of the binding tape, in this case 14mm.
+{{:binding:continuous:preparing_tubular_binding_for_continuous_cutting.jpg?800|}}
+I use a small cutting pad, a transparent ruler and a rotary cutter to remove that triangle. Some people prefer to cut with scissors!
+{{:binding:continuous:trimming_triangle_half_height_binding.jpg?800|}}
+Then I turn the fabric and I draw a line connecting the half height mark with the full height mark at the end, in this case 28mm.
+{{:binding:continuous:drawing_second_side_full_height_of_binding.jpg?800|}}
+And then I trimm the triangle below.
+{{:binding:continuous:trimming_second_half.jpg?800|}}
+Here I am ready to start cutting continuous tape. I just keep moving the pad and the ruler.
+{{:binding:continuous:continue_to_cut_2.8_cm_using_quilting_ruler.jpg?800|}}
+How much.... depends, but usually I cut at least 30 cm of fabric. That makes approximately 6 meters of continous binding tape.
+{{:binding:continuous:continue_cutting.jpg?800|}}
+And finally I wind the tape with the side that curves slightly inside.
+{{:binding:continuous:roll.jpg?800|}}
+==== Positioning and adjusting the settings ====
+{{:binding:continuous:babylock_with_binding_tape_reel_holder_with_clamp.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:positioning_binder_on_babylock_using_needles_1_and_2.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:how_to_make_your_own_tape_holder.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:homemade_reel_binding_going_through_some_teeth_of_the_rake.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:janome_with_adjustable_seam_guide.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:lightly_gathered_edge.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:janome_n2_and_3_at_4.5_looper_2.5_tight_stl3.5_dif_1.5_more_gathering.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:neckline_bl_n1_and_2_4.5_looper_1.5_stl_3.5_dif_1.5_pes_stretch_thread_in_looper.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:fabric_freely_moving_into_binding.jpg?400|}}
+{{:binding:continuous:janome_n2_and_3_at_4.5_looper_2.5_tight_stl3.5_dif_.75_straight.jpg?400|}}

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